2007 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru

From his estate, Boillot's 2007 Meursault Genevrieres evinces low-toned richness and overtly stony, chalky mineral character, which when combined with flavors of fruit pit and citrus rind make for a relative sense of austerity. This is very firm and tucked-in, wearing its high extract palpably on its sleeve. But it is also undeniably deep. There is a combination of proportionality, a flouting of structure, and a sheer stoniness here that make me think of a Greco-Roman temple. Were it not for glyceral richness this would come off as downright austere. It's going to take some time for this to reveal a more winsome side – if indeed it has one – but there is little question in my mind that this will remain formidable for 6-8 years if not longer. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724