2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Alberigi

Vivid ruby-red. Heady aromas of dark raspberry, mocha and minerals, with an Asian spice nuance gaining power with aeration. Silky, broad and sweet, but with lively acidity and floral notes giving excellent energy and lift to the mid-palate. Complex, nicely persistent pinot, with firm finishing minerality and only a trace of tannins.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Alberigi is one of the least expressive of these 2011s. The stems are a bit prominent today, so further cellaring is a must. Still, there is a primal energy in the fruit that is unbelievably attractive. The 2011 should be a jewel once it opens up a bit in bottle. It is quite promising, even today, finishing with great persistence. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578