2009 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Alberigi

Radio-Coteau’s 2009 Pinot Noir Alberigi wraps around the palate with layers of sensual, rich fruit. This is one of the softest, most layered and utterly magnificent Pinots I have ever tasted from Radio-Coteau. In this vintage the 2009 has a little more fruit density and richness that serves to balance the whole clusters beautifully. Savory herbs, mint and crushed flowers add lift on the finish. The 2009 is delicious today, but should also age nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

(50% new oak; fermented with 27% whole clusters): Bright ruby. Highly expressive, heady bouquet of red and dark berries and flowers, along with exotic incense and herb qualities; I'll bet you could smell this from ten feet away. Juicy, sharply defined and sweet, offering strawberry and black raspberry and lavender flavors complemented by suave vanilla and spicecake nuances. Really stains the palate, finishing on a gently sweet note, with great persistence. One of the best pinots that I tasted from this vintage, which is one that isn't short of standout wines.