2010 Wind Gap Syrah Sonoma Coast

(100% whole clusters and raised in neutral French oak;12.3% alcohol): Inky purple. Heady aromas of black raspberry, cola, sandalwood and potpourri. Distinctly exotic, with notes of patchouli and star anise coming up in the glass. Taut and focused on the palate, offering vibrant, spice-accented red and dark berry flavors and a strong jolt of cracked pepper. Closes sweet and long, with slow-building tannins and excellent clarity.

The 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Coast) bursts from the glass with explosive dark fruit, olives, black pepper, sage, rosemary and juniper berries. Rich, intense and generous, the 2010 is flat-out stunning. The 100% whole clusters are very nicely balanced in this vintage. Delicate, savory notes on the finish balance the exuberance of the fruit. There is no shortage of personality here. At $38 a bottle, Wind Gap's Syrah is also one of the great values in wine. This is a terrific showing from proprietor Pax Mahle and Wind Gap. If readers can find a better Sonoma Coast Syrah for the money, I would like to know about it! The 2010 is a blend of fruit from Nellessen, Majik and Armagh. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. This is another exciting, captivating set of wines from Wind Gap and Pax Mahle. Readers who have not yet discovered Wind Gap owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most gorgeous, nuanced wines being made in California today. Mahle continues to experiment with concrete and larger casks, both of which seem ideally suited to a minimalist approach that seeks to draw out the maximum expression of each of these sites. The Wind Gap wines achieve that elusive balance of depth without excess heaviness. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the range I tasted and can't recommend these wines highly enough. Tel. (707) 887-9100