2016 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The Ramonet family lost fully 90% of their crop to frost in this grand cru, but the 2016 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out very well, offering up lovely aromas of green orchard fruit, Meyer lemon, fresh mint, pastry cream and iodine. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and satiny, with broad shoulders and a textural attack but considerable cut and tension. In its tangy, incisive profile it harks back to the white Burgundies of yesteryear, and I suspect it will prove very long lived.

(this and the rest of the 2016 grand crus were scheduled to be bottled at the end of June or in early July; from frosted vines): Very tight, citrussy nose isn't giving up much today. Shows enticing floral hints on entry, then turns a bit spiky and ungiving in the middle palate, with its fruit in the deep background today. A distinctly chewy, more phenolic style, perhaps knocked off balance by the frost.