2006 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

Showed some lovely peach and apricot aromas, honeyed fruit and well integrated acidity. Stone fruit and minerality, lots of room for development, maybe 2006 was the year of the classic Mosel Spätlese as long as growers were selective enough. (MS)

Although given a hard act to follow in this line-up, 2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese still managed to display greater elegance and refinement, purity and clarity, than its Wehlen counterpart. The nose is treated to floral, nut oil, vanilla, orchard, and red berry notes. The plush, caressing palate impression is of hazelnut cream, vanilla, mocha-coffee, and mysteriously meaty depth. Yet there is a juicy pit fruit component and remarkable clarity and buoyancy that carry into the finish, where no other word can describe the interplay with minerality save for “shimmering.” “There were still some healthy, golden berries, and the wine was split between Fuder and stainless steel,” comments Selbach. Relish this ravishing Spatlese anytime over the coming two decades. The harvest almost filled the month of October, but by the standards of this large estate with holdings stretching across four communes, that is (in Johannes Selbach’s words) “super quick” and volume was down 30% from the already small 2005 harvest. Musts were sometimes fined with bentonite but never with charcoal. “This is my year of superlatives,” says Selbach. “When I think of my children and their children, and about a wine one could open in a hundred years and say ‘Wow!’ one dreams of wines from great historical vintages like 1911, 1921, 1953 ... and that in one’s own lifetime one might experience and harvest wines that would number among them. For me, that’s 2006.” Selbach took an interest in Pinot Blanc for sparkling wine, since there are some promising old vines in cooler side locations of Zeltingen’s Schlossberg. But he now thinks the fruit will probably always be too ripe for that purpose, whereas the still results are themselves promising. There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

Salty citrus on the nose then quite viscous and luscious apricots on the palate.