2006 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru

The Lafarges' 2006 Volnay Mitans represents the charming and in its way equally impressive alter ego to their Beaune Greves. Freshness of (raspberry and red cherry) fruit and a lively and intricate interplay with alkaline, chalky, saline, zesty citrus oil and spicy elements are strikingly displayed, but there is a polished texture and subtly soothing, mouth-coating sweetness of fruit to match all of this wine's energy. The sense of lift – near delicacy – here is uncanny in view of its simultaneous ability to caress the palate and to convey a sense of mineral extract. Nor can wafting floral high tones or emerging suggestions of marrow-rich meat stock and noble mushrooms be overlooked in this multi-registered performance, which should continue to be memorably delicious for at least a decade. I would not, however, expect it to take on either teen- or middle-aged flesh or fat. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70