2011 Saxum Booker Vineyard Syrah

Beautifully done, and probably the most elegant, seamless version of this cuvee I’ve tasted, the 2011 Booker Vineyard offers terrific aromas and flavors of liquid violets, sappy underbrush, smoked , exotic spices and plenty of crushed rock-like minerality that are all carried by layers of sweet cassis and black raspberry. There’s a northern Rhone-like character here, but it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, fantastic mid-palate concentration, and a seamless, layered and multi-dimensional mouthfeel that’s hard to resist. Made from 67% Syrah and 33% Mourvedre and aged in 300- and 350-liter hogsheads (and fermented with varying degrees of whole cluster), this beautifully pure, polished and complex effort will benefit from short-term cellaring and have over 15 years of overall longevity. This was another great visit with Justin Smith, and he continues to tweak and experiment with varying degrees of whole cluster and concrete, puncheon and barrel aging regimes. Looking at his 2011s, I was able to taste all of these from bottles in Colorado, and they’ve closed down substantially since I reviewed them from barrel. In most cases, these took a day or more to fully unwind, and the style here is much more Rhone-like, with spice, pepper and meaty aromatics paired with focused, firm palate profiles. These are gorgeous wine that won’t start to show their full potential for another 3-4 years. The 2012s are just as good, if not better, yet are surprisingly tannic and structured. Given the up-front nature of the vintage, I was surprised by the tannin profile and more reserved style in most of the wines. Nevertheless, the concentration level here is on par with, if not slightly greater than, the 2011s, and they show the fabulous purity and focus of the vintage. Both of these vintages will need short-term cellaring. My favorite of the three vintages reviewed here, the 2013s offer thrilling density of fruit, massive concentration, and sound underlying structure that keeps the wines focused and balanced. I think short-term cellaring will be helpful here as well, but I wouldn’t be afraid to crack a bottle or two on release either. Despite these vintage differences, as I hope the reviews and scores show, these are incredible wines that make the most of this special terroir. Truthfully, there are few mailing lists out there worth being on, but without a doubt, this is one of them. Tel. (805) 610-0363; www.saxumvineyards.com

Pomegranate, plum, exotic spices, smoke and graphite are some of the many notes that are found in the 2011 Booker Vineyard. An exceptionally beautiful wine, the 2011 possesses remarkable depth and intensity. Expressive floral and citrus overtones develop in the glass, adding considerable brightness and aromatic nuance. Even though the 2011 is gorgeous today, my sense is it is holding back much of its potential.

(67% syrah and 33% mourvedre): Dark purple. Potent aromas of cassis, cherry liqueur, blueberry, Moroccan spices, violet and smoky minerals. Impressively deep but energetic, offering sappy dark fruit flavors laced with notes of mocha, violet, cola, five-spice powder and cracked pepper. Decidedly rich but this comes across as almost elegant, with impressive lift and energy thanks to bright, juicy acidity. The deep, sappy black and blue fruit flavors refuse to let go on the long, spicy finish.