2009 Sine Qua Non Syrah This Is Not An Exit

(80% syrah, 12% grenache, 7% roussanne and 1% viognier; 15.6% alcohol and 65% new French oak): Opaque purple. Intensely perfumed scents of black raspberry, cherry preserves, potpourri and smoky minerals. Brisk, tightly wound dark berry and floral pastille flavors are underscored by intense minerality and show excellent clarity. Closes smooth, sweet and very long, with slow-building tannins and lingering florality.

An extended barrel-aged release, the 2009 Syrah This Is Not An Exit is 100% from the Santa Rita Hills Eleven Confessions Vineyard and checks in as a blend of 80% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 7% Roussanne and 1% Viognier that saw 41.5 months in 65% new French oak. Slightly exotic, with notions of kirsch, flower oil, smoked meats, licorice and graphite, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness and depth, loads of fruit and a blockbuster finish. More approachable than the 2010 extended barrel age Syrah, this beauty will still have 15+ years of longevity. Drink now-2024. About as good as it gets across the board, these singular, incredible wines are the result of an obsessive attention to detail at all stages of the wine making process. There is no secret or hidden magic going on here. The incredibly talented and down-to-earth Manfred Krankl simply walks the walk as opposed to only talking about attention to detail or offering up the standard, wine is made in the vineyard comments. Looking at the vintages focused on here, 2009 has produced a decadent, voluptuous style that offers up thrilling levels of fruit as well as an approachable, heady richness that-s hard to resist. While they possess ample depth and structure, I would drink these before either the 2010s or 2011s. The 2010s here are stunning and have everything; gorgeous fruit, awesome concentration and incredible purity. While the most age-worthy of the recent vintages, they're a spectacular drink even today. The 2011s, which were all tasted out of barrel, have additional freshness and focus over the 2010s. They have solid concentration and overall balanced profiles that should allow them to cruise in the cellar. Tel. (805) 649-8901; www.sinequanon.com

The 2009 Syrah This is Not an Exit seems to still be showing some of the effects of its recent bottling, about a month and a half before this tasting. Like the 2009 Grenache This is Not an Exit, the Syrah is rich, powerful and voluptuous. Chocolate, mocha, black cherries and menthol are followed by hints of pomegranate, orange rind and spices, all of which add an exotic flair. Right now, I have a preference for the 2010s and the 2011s at Sine Qua Non, but I have seen these wines develop beautifully in bottle, so we will see. The blend is 80% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 7% Roussanne and 1% Viognier (with 22% whole clusters), all from Eleven Confessions.