2009 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard is one of the more gracious, mid-weight wines in this lineup. It floats across the palate with sweet dark cherries, crushed, flowers, mint, licorice and spices. The Olivet Lane is all about subtlety, and there is plenty of that here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Bright red. Explosively perfumed and pure on the nose, showing mineral-laced red berry and cherry qualities complicated by sexy spices and flowers. Really heady pinot, with exotic red fruit compote and floral pastille flavors and a silky, seamless texture. The spiciness dominates the very long, sappy, incisive finish. This will be a beauty in a few years and should age gracefully. There are only 191 cases of this wine, the first Olivet Lane bottling for Williams-Selyem since the 1997. Cabral said that he was thrilled to be able to work with this fruit again, "even if there wasn't much, because it's a return to a vineyard that put the winery on the map, which makes this feel like coming full circle."