2010 Radio-Coteau Syrah Las Colinas

The 2010 Syrah Las Colinas is laced with blackberries, graphite, asphalt, tar, licorice and tons of varietal nuances. Just as fabulous as it has always been, the 2010 is closing down a bit in bottle, but not enough to materially detract from the pure pleasure it provides. Savory herbs, black pepper and game add layers of complexity on a firm finish that ensures the 2010 will drink well for at least a decade. The 2010 Las Colinas is a modern-day California classic from Radio-Coteau. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Opaque ruby. Intense, textbook syrah aromas of blackberry, licorice, pungent flowers and cracked pepper. Sappy and precise on the palate, with an intense spiciness to the fresh dark berry and bitter cherry flavors. Finishes sweet, silky and linear, with fine-grained tannins and excellent persistence.

The 2010 Syrah Las Colinas is an exciting, racy wine bursting with dark cherries, plums, grilled herbs, tapenade and white flowers. It possesses striking varietal delineation and fabulous balance in a racy exotic style that is immensely appealing. The Las Colinas was made with 100% destemmed fruit and was to spend 15 months in French oak barrels and puncheons.