2009 Radio-Coteau Syrah Las Colinas

The 2009 Syrah Las Colinas is marvelous. In this vintage, the Las Colinas has tremendous fruit density but perhaps a touch less in the way of varietal aromas and flavors. Still, it is impossible not to love the 2009 for its voluptuous personality and terrific overall balance. In 2009, the Colinas is all about fruit intensity. Still a bit exuberant, the 2009 could use another year or two in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Glass-staining ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of blackberry, cassis and candied violet, with notes of white pepper and Asian spices adding complexity. Gains energy and red fruit character with air, picking up a strong raspberry quality to go along with its deeper dark fruits. The racy, minerally finish displays excellent clarity and length. I like this wine's fat-free character.