2018 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru comprises eight-and-a-quarter barrels this year. Interestingly, Bachelet lamented how the shallow soils exacerbate the drought conditions, to the extent that he is afraid that at some point in the future the parcel will need to be replanted with rootstocks more acclimated to a lack of moisture. The crystalline, floral bouquet blossoms in the glass, turning very intense and delivering a mixture of red and black fruit laced with rose petals and iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Not a powerful Grand Cru by a long way, but much more refined and graceful, almost dichotomous to the growing season. A dash of white pepper peps up the finish. Sublime.

Exquisitely balanced with just 13.2% natural alcohol, Bachelet's 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes has realized all the promise it showed in barrel, wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, plums, orange rind, raw coca, woodsmoke and rich, loamy soil. Full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's deep and concentrated, built around lively acids and an elegantly muscular chassis of rich, powdery tannins. Seamless and complete, this is another brilliant Charmes from Bachelet, and I can't wait to revisit it a decade or two from now.

50% new oak and Bachelet gives me a blend made in his pipette. Barrel sample that was, like all his wines, racked after malo so he can get ‘pure wines and no reduction from the lees’. Barrel sample. Generous in fruit immediately, both red and black. Savoury and spicy on the palate, generous but more sinewy than I expected from the nose thanks to the tension in the tannins and the acidity. Savoury and long, dark, spicy and elegant. So cool and elegant. (JH)