2011 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Charmes 1er Cru

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2011 from Comtes-Lafon has a slightly austere bouquet with touches of white flower and melted butter developing with aeration, while maintaining fine delineation and focus. The palate is clean and fresh with good acidity, vibrant citrus fruit and a wonderfully poised and vibrant finish that lacks a little persistence in the mouth.

(bottled the day before my visit; aged in 40% new oak): Complex, vibrant aromas of peach, orange zest and lemon accented by white pepper. Rich, ripe, tactile and sweet, with the intense citrus and stone fruit flavors accented by peppery spices and complicated by vanilla and leesy nuances. A very good showing today, but this is still a baby.

A big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2011 Meursault Charmes sweeps across the palate with notable breadth, creaminess and volume. Layers of yellow-fleshed fruit and sweet spices blossom in the glass. Ultimately, the 2011 is a wine of texture above all else. There is plenty of energy and depth, but unlike the 2010, the 2011 will drink well right out of the gate.