2021 Saxum Somnus

The second iteration of this release and one of the more extreme bottlings produced at Saxum, the 2021 Somnus combines the most tannic lots from Cayucos Ridge Vineyard with a co-fermentation of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Graciano from James Berry Vineyard. It matures for an additional year beyond the already lengthy élevage of the block designates, making for a full 44-month élevage in 86% new 225-liter barriques. The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of spice, anise and black fruit aromas, introducing a fittingly dense, fleshy, enveloping palate padded with savory nuance and a creamy core of oak that works impressively well despite its prominent presence. It closes with a refined, three-dimensional finish, lingering with endless richness, chalky tannins and succulent energy. This wine occupies a rare nexus of being overtly treated while retaining an unmistakable expression of place, and I look forward to seeing the layers it develops with time in the cellar.

Still inky purple-hued to the rim, the 2021 Somnus reveals absolutely sensational aromatics of cassis, darker currants, pepper herbs, cured meats, and graphite. It's deep and powerful, with full-bodied richness, massive mid-palate depth, ripe, polished tannins, and blockbuster length. Brought up in French oak (86% new, 14% neutral) for 44 months, it's going to have two to three decades of longevity. It's Saxum's answer to Guigal's famed La Las, and it delivers the goods! Drink 2025-2055. I’ve been raving about the wines from Justin Smith’s Saxum estate for close to two decades now, and at times I feel like a broken record. That said, the quality this family consistently delivers is jaw-dropping year after year. I don’t recommend many mailing lists, but this is certainly one to be on. Looking at the 2023s, the wines are brilliant across the board. They reflect the longer, cooler style of the vintage while staying true to form, with serious richness and depth. The 2022s are much more open and expressive, showing the sunny personality of the year. They still have plenty of structure, and I suspect they’ll age beautifully. It’s also worth noting that as Cayucos Ridge continues to come online, Justin is moving more and more toward estate-only fruit. As a result, 2023 will be the final vintage for both Heart Stone and Paderewski. He’s still holding onto a bit of G2 fruit, but we’ll see how long that lasts. At the same time, a new cuvée called The Old Blocks will replace the former Hexe release, although it will no longer include any G2 fruit.

The 2021 Somnus is impossible to ignore, offering a spice box bouquet of black tea leaves, cedar and pine, dried blackberries, cardamom and clove. More lifted and energetic than anticipated, it presents saturating depths of red and black fruits, complicated by savory herbal tones and a bitter cocoa tinge as edgy tannins saturate toward the close. Long and structured yet remarkably fresh, the 2021 finishes with impressive length and a subtle balsamic nuance as graphite mineral tones fade slowly.