2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru

Here the SO2 is quite strong, indeed so much so that it overshadows the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is excellent punch to the beautifully precise and mineral-driven flavors that deliver fine length and complexity on the balanced lemon-tinged finale. This is a bit more tightly wound and will need at least some patience first. *Outstanding, Top Value*

Picked 27 August. Three parcels, two in the middle that did not suffer water stress but the third parcel higher up (20% of the wine) suffered a little – leaves started to go yellow and berries were smaller and riper (13.2% alcohol). Very sunny spot, particularly calcareous with white soils and vines 45 and 20 years old, which can suffer in hot, dry summers such as 2015. Longer élevage gives wines more tension and minerality. Tank sample. Ripe and open with citrus and clementine fruit. Ginger and delicately spiced but the oak totally backgrounded. Dusty lime. Extreme precision, mouth-watering but the fruit coats the mouth. Intense, open and vibrant in its freshness. (JH)