2003 Behrens Family The Contender
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Tasting notes
The 2003 The Contender is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot that finished at 14.6% natural alcohol. The label is an artist’s interpretation of two formidable and scary heavyweights ready to rip each other’s head off. Lots of creamy black currant fruit, spicy wood, meatiness and richness jump from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, robust, exuberant wine. A lot of fun to drink, with surprising intensity and richness, it has held up well for ten rounds – oops, I mean ten years, as it still seems to be somewhat of an adolescent with plenty of life ahead of it. This is a Rhone-like, heady, succulent blend with lots of personality as well as pleasure-giving qualities. It should drink well for another decade. I have seen rumors circulating on the blogs alleging a problem with the Behrens-Hitchcock synthetic closures in the winery’s early days, but all of these wines were finished with real cork. This has always been one of my favorite wineries to visit, a great family operation of young to middle-aged wine and food lovers trying to do the best they can, eschewing any arrogance given their serious talent. In short, consumers benefit from high level amateur winemaking and intense viticultural knowledge. It is hard to know in what order to taste these wines, but here goes. Tel. (707) 963-1774
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(a Bordeaux blend based on 73% cabernet sauvignon; 14.6% alcohol) Deep ruby-red. Aromas of currant, dark chocolate, creosote, lead pencil and violet. Fat and sweet in the mouth, with ripe flavors of raspberry, currant, mint and chocolate. The tannins here are finer than those of Everything But... and there's also stronger buffering fruit.
(73% cabernet sauvignon, 22% cabernet franc, 4% merlot and 1% petit verdot) Good medium ruby. Cool aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, violet, menthol and licorice. Dense, sweet and lush, with a seamless, creamy texture and plenty of early appeal. Nicely balanced at 14.6% alcohol, this blend finishes quite long, with notes of bitter chocolate and licorice.