1996 Behrens Family Ode to Picasso
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Tasting notes
This wine is the most expensive wine in the Behrens and Hitchcock portfolio and performed the least well. This dark ruby/purple-colored wine (named after a recently deceased cat) is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Viognier. The wine's bouquet is dominated by the Viognier. In fact, that component is not yet integrated into the wine's overall personality, which kept my score lower than it may eventually become. The honeysuckle, apricot, blackberry, and currant-scented nose is followed by a wine with good ripeness, a round, gentle, graceful entry, sweet ripe fruit, and a spicy, moderately long finish. Even in the flavor profile, the Viognier appears to have the upper hand, dominating the varietal characteristics of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Although very good, the question is, will it become better, and will the Viognier become more meshed in the wine's overall composition? In any event, this wine should drink well for 7-8 years. Readers may remember the ecstatic reviews I gave previous releases from Behrens and Hitchcock last year. I am thrilled to say that the current releases are also immensely impressive. As demonstrated by last year's releases in addition to these new offerings, Behrens and Hitchcock are producing some of northern California's most exciting wines. Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206
Critic scores
Robert Parker