2017 Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is somewhat underwhelming on the nose and lacks the freshness of its peers; I wonder if it has closed down. The palate is medium-bodied with an earthy entry, balanced and fresh, but overtly leafy and slightly herbaceous toward the finish. There is something very old-school about this Bonnes-Mares, but I wish it had a little more energy. I'm keeping the faith. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
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Neal Martin
Neal Martin
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The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was bottled just before Christmas 2018. It has an engaging, almost beguiling bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois , light tobacco aromas and a discreet marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and slightly ferrous red berry fruit. More broody and introspective than the nascent 2018, with a subtly spicy pinch of cracked black pepper on the fresh finish. Excellent.
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and includes 100% whole bunch fruit. It has a precocious, extrovert bouquet - which is exactly what I demand from my Bonnes-Mares – featuring intense black and blueberry fruit and hints of violet mixed with hoisin . The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, saturated tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares a fleshy, almost corpulent mouthfeel. There is great volume here and yet ample freshness and focus toward the pastille-like finish. Superb.
About the producer
Domaine Robert Groffier is based in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis and is famous for having some of the most enviable sites in the Côte de Nuits, including a full hectare within Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses – one of the most fiercely collected vineyards in Burgundy.