2006 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru

The Meo-Camuzet 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Boudots smells ripely of purple plum, cassis, and a suggestion of blueberry, along with nutmeg, vanilla, and sweetly-smoky suggestions of machine oil. Here we have the sweetness of fruit and richness as well as the spice (both aspects reinforced by new wood – here 100%) that is present in most of the wines of this collection, as well as a bit of detached finishing tannin also reinforced by the impression of oak. Fortunately, though, there is a sense of levity and of fresh fruit flux that enhances fluidity and purity in the finish, whose noticeable tannins are still more refined than in the wines that preceded it in Meo's 2006 line-up. I'd expect this to be well worth following for at least 6-8 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25