2003 Behrens Family Cemetery
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Tasting notes
No doubt the famous movie director, Tim Burton, would love the label on the 2003 Cemetery. This blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot tips the scales at 15.6% alcohol. While it won’t drive a nail or two in your coffin, it has a lot going for it. Gorgeous notes of blueberry liqueur, flowers, pepper and spice soar from the glass of this deadly serious, rich, complex wine. With velvety tannins, a full-bodied texture (so much for skeletons not having any guts) and a long finish, I could drink this still young 2003 until the zombies come home. It is a real beauty from Les Behrens and his merry crew of wine producers. There’s nothing macabre about the 2003 Cemetery. I have seen rumors circulating on the blogs alleging a problem with the Behrens-Hitchcock synthetic closures in the winery’s early days, but all of these wines were finished with real cork. This has always been one of my favorite wineries to visit, a great family operation of young to middle-aged wine and food lovers trying to do the best they can, eschewing any arrogance given their serious talent. In short, consumers benefit from high level amateur winemaking and intense viticultural knowledge. It is hard to know in what order to taste these wines, but here goes. Tel. (707) 963-1774
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(47% each cabernet sauvignon and merlot and 3% each petit verdot and cabernet franc; 15.4% alcohol) Medium red. Cool aromas of cherry, mint, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then supple and nicely focused, with flavors of red cherry, chocolate and mint. Distinctly cooler wine, finishing with a medicinal black cherry and mint character and slightly dry tannins. The vines from this gravelly site typically give linear wines, and thus the merlot is needed to fill them out, notes Behrens.
(47% cabernet sauvignon, 47% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 3% cabernet franc; from very young vines) Good ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, black cherry, mint, licorice and game. Lush and broad, if a bit warm with alcohol (15.4%). Slightly medicinal, chunky flavors of black cherry, mint and licorice pastille. Offers good breadth but moderate depth. Finishes a tad green, with slightly dry tannins.