2009 Royal Tokaji Essencia
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Tasting notes
A hot year that gave high sugar. TA 11.8 g/l, RS 581 g/l. 1,356 bottles. Mid copper colour. The nose is led by succulent honeyed and tinned peaches. There is a baked-fruit tone similar to the smell of freshly baked French pastries. Vanilla, apricot jam, powdered sugar and caramelised fruits all come through. The palate has a round, creamy texture, generous and unctuous. This has more in common with 2017 than 2016, though it feels perhaps softer and oilier than the 2017. With air, notes of wood spice and tobacco come through, pointing to the first signs of maturity. From spoon this lacks a little character; it is glossy and full-bodied, but not as characterful as 2017 or as lively as 2016. This is a wine that needs its aromatic power. (TP)
Critic scores
Average Score
Tom Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2009 Tokaji Essencia is a production of 1,356 bottles. It contains 581 g/l residual sugar and 11.8 g/l acidity. Very complex, it's quite profound on a nose that is still just a little timid coming after the 2016. Seville orange marmalade, quince jus, honeycomb and butterscotch gradually unfold in the glass. It conveys a sense of precision unlike any other vintage. The palate is just pure bliss, with incredible balance and poise, ineffable purity and panache, velvety texture with perhaps a soupçon more sustain on the finish compared to the 2016 and 2017. This is a perfect Essencia.
The 2009 Tokaji Essencia comes in 1,386 individual red lacquer hand-crafted boxes containing a 375ml bottle and an obligatory hand-blown glass spoon, which is not there for decorative purposes. It does enhance imbibement, allowing that enormous hit of sucrosity to land straight on the tongue instead of clinging to the sides of your mouth or gums. It has a surprisingly bashful nose for the first 12 hours. Whereas some burst from the glass, this chooses to unfurl and only as if toying with you, gradually reveals scents of fresh fig, Medjool dates, Seville orange marmalade and Clementines. I notice that the aromatics blossom on the second day as it deftly slips into fifth gear. The palate also meliorates, obviously unctuous and yet paradoxically weightless thanks to that acidity. Again, fig features prominently allied with marmalade, demerara and quince, more desiccated orange peel and syrup towards the harmonious finish. Wonderful precision throughout, this magnificent Essencia that will outlast you and I.