2010 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard

The 2010 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard is one of the few 2010s at Kosta-Browne that might actually benefit from another year in bottle, as the tannins are quite firm. A powerful Pinot, the Pisoni is all about structure at present. Sweet tobacco, dried flowers and savory herbs are layered into the vibrant finish. There is an underlying salinity that makes the Pisoni hugely attractive. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Kosta-Browne is one of those places that always seems to be buzzing with a positive vibe that is hard to fully describe, but that I am sure informs these exuberant, deeply expressive wines. I arrived for my tasting as the winery was completing their move to new, spacious digs at The Barlow, a large facility food/wine industrial park facility in Sebastopol that also houses Pax Mahle's winery plus a number of restaurants, markets, cheese shops, coffee houses and sellers of other local food specialties that will move in shortly. The Barlow is still undergoing its build out, but it will be very interesting to see how the project develops in the coming years. As for the Pinots that have made K-B so famous, the wines keep getting better and more refined with each passing vintage. One big development is the acquisition of Gaps Crown by investor Bill Price, who is also an owner of Kosta-Browne, which means that Gaps Crown now becomes essentially an estate vineyard, although I am told contracts with other growers who purchase fruit will remain in place. It-s all part of the constant energy that seems to be an essential part of K-B-s DNA. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Bright ruby. Room-filling scents of black raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and lavender, with suave vanilla and smoke notes gaining strength with air. Broad, palate-staining dark berry flavors are given lift by tangy acidity and pick up spice and floral pastille accents on the back end. This supple, seamless wine finishes with excellent clarity and lingering spiciness.