2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir La Neblina

Vivid red. Suave red berry and floral aromas, with complicating notes of cola, cocoa and licorice. Silky, nicely balanced and fresh, with energetic red berry flavors that gain flesh and weight with air. This elegant, focused and fat-free pinot finishes with sweet red fruit flavors and very good length.

The 2011 Pinot Noir La Neblina has good up-front density in its perfumed red fruit. At times a bit delicate and fragile, this gracious, medium-bodied wine is probably best enjoyed over the next few years. The purity of the fruit is impossible to miss. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578