2010 Donelan Cuvée Moriah

Donelan’s 2010 Cuvee Moriah is a blend of 54% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah fermented with 25-50% whole clusters depending on the variety. Mint, licorice, tar, smoke and blackberries are some of the notes that take shape as this intensely aromatic wine opens up in the glass. Today the tannins are a bit firm, and I get a sense the fruit may not have achieved full ripeness. It will be interesting to see how the wine develops after bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2018. Proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker Tyler Thomas share a passion for cool-climate marginal sites. Given the focus on sourcing from top vineyards, it is hardly a surprise that the vineyard-designates are the most exciting wines in this lineup. I have a harder time finding the same level of enthusiasm for the winery’s numerous blended cuvees, but these are all excellent to outstanding wines that merit serious attention. Tel. (707) 591-0782; www.donelanwines.com

I was able to taste each component destined for the 2010 Donelan Cuvée Moriah and this cuvee always excels aromatically, and this vintage is no exception. Sporting already complex notions of herbs de Provence, pepper, earth, and meaty characteristics, each component was medium-bodied, well balanced, and possessed an overall fresh, pure character. Lighter styled and elegant, this will most likely benefit from 1-3 years of bottle age, and have upwards of a decade of prime drinking.