2007 Pax Syrah Obsidian

The Pax Cellars 2007 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard (100% Syrah, 40% whole clusters) possesses an inky/blue/purple color in addition to a burgeoning yet restrained bouquet of Chinese black tea, creme de cassis, blackberries, tar, crushed rocks, graphite, and ink. Deep, full-bodied, and powerful with painful levels of extract and richness, this 2007 needs 3-4 years of cellaring. It should last for at least two decades. Perhaps the closest wine one could compare it to is a concentrated vintage of Hermitage. The troubled departure of Pax Mahle as winemaker from this operation owned primarily by Joe Donelan has resulted in a change of name. Coinciding with the 2008s, this is now Donelan Family Wines. The reviews that follow include the 2007s, the last wines produced under the Pax Cellars moniker, with the 2008s to be released under the Donelan Family Wines. Pax Mahle now has his own up-and-coming winery called Wind Gap. One of the most interesting vineyards Donelan has used is the Obsidian Vineyard in Knight’s Valley. This vineyard’s soil resembles black marble, and the result is an extraordinary wine with characteristics that are nearly impossible to articulate. Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784