2009 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Eastside Road Neighbors

The 2009 Pinot Noir Eastside Road Neighbors is a precise, beautifully delineated wine bursting with energy and persistence. Dark red cherries, plums, spices and licorice flow gracefully from this mid-weight, pointed wine. The bright acidity makes me think the wine will age quite nicely for a number of years. Some of the vineyards in this blend are Calegari, Black Rose and Lone Oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Deep ruby. Riper and more powerful than the Westside Neighbors bottling, displaying aromas of cherry, blackberry, licorice and dark chocolate. Broad, fleshy and warm, with good depth to its dark fruit flavors and a touch of bitter cherry on the back half. The pliant, long finish features repeating dark berry notes. Cabral noted that this is a warmer area than the west side of the river and that these are almost all Dijon clones "so the wine can be expected to be darker in character and more brawny than the Westside."