2010 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard

The 2010 Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard is much more immediate, round and juicy than the Garys', Kosta-Browne's other vineyard-designate Pinot from the Santa Lucia Highlands. A blast of black and blue fruits hits the palate in this exuberant, flashy wine. An exotic hint of pomegranate and orange peel add an exotic flair that is undeniably appealing. Today, the Rosella's comes across as more typical of the Santa Lucia Highlands than the Garys'. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Kosta-Browne is one of those places that always seems to be buzzing with a positive vibe that is hard to fully describe, but that I am sure informs these exuberant, deeply expressive wines. I arrived for my tasting as the winery was completing their move to new, spacious digs at The Barlow, a large facility food/wine industrial park facility in Sebastopol that also houses Pax Mahle-s winery plus a number of restaurants, markets, cheese shops, coffee houses and sellers of other local food specialties that will move in shortly. The Barlow is still undergoing its build out, but it will be very interesting to see how the project develops in the coming years. As for the Pinots that have made K-B so famous, the wines keep getting better and more refined with each passing vintage. One big development is the acquisition of Gaps Crown by investor Bill Price, who is also an owner of Kosta-Browne, which means that Gaps Crown now becomes essentially an estate vineyard, although I am told contracts with other growers who purchase fruit will remain in place. It-s all part of the constant energy that seems to be an essential part of K-B-s DNA. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Full ruby. Seductive bouquet of candied raspberry, cherry, star anise and rose oil, complemented by a hint of vanilla. Supple and seamless on the palate, with deeply pitched red and dark berry flavors picking up smokiness with air. Fine-grained tannins add shape and grip to the very long finish, which hints at sweet floral pastilles.