2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Rosella’s Vineyard is an exotic wine laced with Asian spices, orange peel, leather, tar and spices, all of which add complexity to the the dark red fruit. By the aromatic lift, I would have guessed there were some stems here, but the fruit was totally destemmed. The finish is pointed and nicely articulated, even if I don’t find a ton of Rosella’s character here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Vivid ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, strawberry, blood orange and sexy oak spices. Concentrated and lush, with spicy red fruit and candied rose flavors framed but not overwhelmed by smoky oak. Shows very good balance and finishes bright and sappy, with supple tannins and lingering floral character.