2009 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard comes across as rich, round and sensual, with layers of ripe fruit that caress the palate. It is a pretty, juicy Pinot with good up-front fruit and perhaps a shade less minerality and aromatic complexity than the finest wines in this lineup. The aromas and flavors build towards the powerful finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019+. Inspired by a love for Burgundy, proprietor Kevin Harvey has set his sights on making top-flight Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Pinots in particular are exceptional for their sheer personality, but I also think the wines could also prove to be some of the most long-lived Pinots from California because of their minerality and structure. I tasted a wide range of wines with Harvey and winemaker Jeff Brinkman, including a number of older Pinots going back to 2006. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) none of those older wines appears close to being ready to drink! The Rhys team is obsessed with their vineyards. Everything else is fairly straightforward. The Chardonnays are vinified using ambient yeasts. The wines are not racked until they are prepared for bottling, which is done with no fining or filtration. The Pinots are made in a similarly minimalist fashion, with a high percentage of stems (50-100%) and little manipulation in the cellar. Harvey describes 2009 as a cooler vintage overall than 2008. Tel. (866) 511-1520; www.rhysvineyards.com

Bright ruby. Intensely perfumed, assertive bouquet evokes redcurrant, raspberry and spicecake complemented by smoky minerals and building florality. Pure, precise and deeply concentrated but shockingly lithe, offering sweet red fruit flavors and a steely mineral spine. Unwinds with air to offer deeper cherry and black raspberry qualities while maintaining energy and focus. The finish is racy, subtly sweet and very persistent. Definitely give this a few years of bottle age.