1991 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon

(14% alcohol): Good dark red with ruby tones. More evolved on the nose than the 1990 version but in a natural way; slightly roasted plum and licorice aromas convey a balsamic character and a touch of bay tree oil. Boasts a suaver texture and more sweetness of dark plum fruit than the 1990 but still in a very dry style. Hints of chocolate, mocha and nutty oak contribute to the wine's appeal but there's also a suggestion of maderization that limits this wine's appeal. Finishes with substantial granular, drying tannins.

Historically, this old vineyard can trace its origins to the 1870s. In 1979, lawyer Bill Seavey purchased this Conn Valley property and planted vines in 1981. There are just over 35 acres of vines, most of which are Cabernet Sauvignon. The bulk of the production is sold to Kendall-Jackson, but Seavey estate bottles small quantities of Chardonnay and 600-1200 cases of a potentially superb, concentrated, and long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the wines are aged in small French oak barrels, of which 60% are purchased new from the well-known coopers, Taransaud and Segau-Moreau. Seavey's Cabernet Sauvignons are aged in small French oak casks, of which 60% are new. The wines can be exceptional, as evidenced by the 1991 and 1990, two extraordinarily promising Cabernets. Interestingly, the 1991 is still available at the winery, as are a few bottles of the 1990. I previously recommended the 1991 (600 cases), and after re-tasting it I am even more impressed with this extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon. It possesses an opaque black/purple color, a huge nose of sweet black fruits (primarily cassis and black-raspberries), full body, exceptional concentration, and well-integrated tannin and acidity. It is a massive, yet pure Cabernet Sauvignon that can be drunk now but promises to be even better by the turn of the century and last for 20 years. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, I did a tasting of top 1991s, and the Seavey came out first in a very competitive line-up. Three days after the tasting, a small quantity of the 1991 was still exquisite, perhaps even greater than it had been 72 hours earlier. Amazing! Tel. (707) 963-8339 (winery) or (415) 788-0800; fax (415) 434-1937