2005 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon
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Tasting notes
(15.4% alcohol; includes 8% Petit Verdot): Bright medium ruby. Lovely lift to the aromas of crushed blueberry, boysenberry, licorice, menthol and mint. Densely packed and thick, conveying a glyceral texture and a slightly saline quality to its primary dark berry fruit flavors. This comes across as very unevolved, even compared to the brilliant 2004, with its serious dusty tannins requiring patience. A bit youthfully disjointed today after the 2004, which boasts near-perfect balance, but this wine has terrific energy, spine and length and should ultimately merit an even higher rating. And its high alcohol is well buffered.
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Average Score
Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
(15.4% alcohol): Full ruby-red. Rather Graves-like aromas of redcurrant, licorice, tobacco, earth, mocha and dried herbs, plus a sexy suggestion of iron. Velvety and sweet on the palate but with lovely inner-mouth herbal, spicy lift to its intense red berry fruit. Beautifully filled-in wine with a serious dusting of tannins. Conveys a strong impression of terroir .
This historic estate was acquired by William and the late Mary Seavey in 1979, and their first eye-opening performances, for me, were the 1990 and 1991 Cabernet Sauvignons. Primarily dry-farmed, from steep hillsides in Conn Valley, the challenge, according to winemaking consultant Philippe Melka, has always been to get the tannins under control, as they can be rustic. Certainly he has achieved that consistently for the last decade. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate was aged 19 months in 50% new French oak, and there are only 100 cases of it. It’s a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot. The first bottle was maderized, but the second bottle was in pristine condition, fresh and dense, with lots of blackberry and coffee/espresso notes mixed with blackcurrants, smoky barbecue and earth. Intense, full-bodied and ripe, with low acidity and sweet tannin, this wine has seemingly hit full maturity, where it should last for at least another decade. I wouldn’t put the 2005 in a class with some of their greatest vintages, but it is top, top flight.
The tannins are massive, yet there is plenty of rich blackberry and cassis and an earthy complexity to keep pace. Quite ripe and extracted, and with lots of toasty oak, it needs time to find equilibrium. (LM) $85