2003 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the blockbuster wines of the vintage, Seavey’s 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was made with consulting assistance from Philippe Melka. It spent 19 months in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. A big, robust, exuberant, powerful Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from dry-farmed hillside vineyards and extremely low yields, it achieved a lofty 15.4% natural alcohol (which is not the least bit noticeable in the wine’s flavor profile). Truffle, new saddle leather, black currant, spice box and Grave-like scorched earth and barbecue notes are present in this full-bodied, broodingly rich, primordial Cabernet Sauvignon. It possesses plenty of tannin, but also enormous, luxurious fruit and body. This 2003 should hit its peak in 5-6 years and last at least two decades. (The 1990 and 1991 Seaveys are still young wines!) Tel. (707) 963-8339; Fax (707) 963-0232

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Superripe plum, currant, iron, mocha and minerals on the complex nose. Dense, sweet and fine-grained, with plush flavors of plum, mocha and leather. Very suave and mouthfilling cabernet, offering an impression of stuffing without weight. Finishes with fine, broad tannins and excellent length. This wine continued to expand and gain in sweetness with aeration, and I would not be at all surprised if it merited an even higher score five or six years down the road.

Good full ruby. Very ripe on the nose but more vibrant than the 2002, offering cassis, kirsch, minerals and menthol. Large-scaled, lush, rich and clean, with flavors of black cherry and menthol. At once more elegant and more stuffed with fruit than the 2002. Finishes with suaver tannins. This property benefits from a layer of clay under the gravel and loam, which helps it weather extended dry periods.