1990 Château l'Évangile

1990 was a very good vintage, although a bit more difficult to manage than the 1989. Flowering was uneven and as crop thinning was not as widely used as today, there were some ripening difficulties. But the sharp edges of youth have softened now, leaving a rich, round sense of self, with cassis-rich fruit. Black truffle notes after five minutes in the glass. Many years of drinking pleasure still to be had. Drink 2018-2028.

The 1990 Château L'Evangile has not been as consistent as its 1989 counterpart (see Robert Parker's previous tasting note). Here it showed well, even if I maintain a preference for the 1989. The nose is sultry, broody and takes time to unfurl, almost reluctantly offering up sage and black truffle infused black fruit, developing a subtle aniseed-like aroma with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannin. It is not as charming as the 1989, sweeter in the mouth, fleshier perhaps. That initial rush of black fruit is usurped by red fruit towards the finish, laced with bay leaf and a pinch of white pepper. While I would broach the 1989 now, I would be inclined to reach for the 1990 with another 3-4 years. Tasted January 2016.

Rich and obviously very ripe initially but losing fruit on the palate and by now quite light bodied. (JR)