1997 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

Dark full red. Deep, superripe nose dominated by chocolate and animal fur; could hardly be more different from the '98. Then sweeter, fatter and full-blown in the mouth, clearly the product of a very warm summer. Surprisingly complex for a wine this ripe, with superb depth of red cherry flavor. Wonderfully round, velvety and long.

The spectacular, dense ruby/purple-colored 1997 Cote Rotie La Mouline boasts a complex nose of violets, peaches, and cassis. Soft, voluptuous, medium to full-bodied, and incredibly seductive, it is reminiscent of the 1991 and 1987. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. These tasting notes will not surprise any longtime readers. I have never made a secret of the fact that if I had only one wine left to drink, I would want it to be one of the great vintages of Guigal's Cote Rotie La Mouline. This wine's aromatic fireworks, sumptuous texture, and seamless personality represent perfection. While the percentage of Viognier blended with Syrah can vary from 8-12% (even higher in a vintage such as 1996), this remains one of the world's most intensely perfumed and compelling wines. Every vintage has its share of bacon fat, toast, cassis, acacia flower, black raspberry, creme de cassis, and tapenade notes. A voluptuous texture, sweet tannin, and a satiny smooth demeanor are hallmarks of La Mouline, whether it's a difficult (1974) or great vintage (1999). As it ages, aromas of violets and peaches also emerge. All of the "La La" offerings (as Guigal's fans call them) are aged 42 months in 100% new Francois Freres barrels, experience minimal racking as well as sulphur, and are bottled with neither fining nor filtration. While critics call them branded wines, they always emerge from the same vineyard parcels. In response to the criticism that they are oaky, virtually no new wood can be detected in the wines after 6-8 years of cellaring. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153