1996 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Martinborough

A textbook season. The mild, settled weather at flowering gave us a decent-sized crop at last, almost 3 tonnes/acre. Picking was over by late April after a warmer than average summer and autumn. With fruit in pristine condition and a shiny new winery – a welcome upgrade from the old board-and-batten shed, ageing press and random tanks exposed to the elements – we were happy as pigs in mud. 15% whole bunch. GDD 1,303. Mid bricky red. Aromas more like the 1994, more undergrowth but not quite as intense. Touch of tomato. Still surprisingly firm on the palate even though the tannins are fully resolved. Depth, with a finely scented palate. Red fruit still there at the core. (JH)

This noteworthy effort smells and tastes like a classic red Burgundy, although it possesses an atypical chocolatey note. Dark ruby-colored with purple tints, this soft, berry-scented, earthy, chocolatey wine reveals high quality French oak, zesty acidity, and fine richness without heaviness. It should improve in the bottle for 2-3 years; drink it over the next 5-6 years. Bravo! Statisticians should note this wine has 14% finished alcohol, a pH of 3.5, and was aged for 12 months in 100% French oak casks, of which 25% were new. There is no question that several wineries in New Zealand are getting close to at least catching a glimpse of wine's holy grail - successful Pinot Noir.