2006 Puligny Montrachet Les Levrons

Javillier’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons consisting of a mere four barriques, one of them new features honeydew melon, brown spices, lime, and gooseberry preserves. A somewhat sweet-sour tendency all the way through to the finish seems to reflect the compromise that resulted from picking this early to preserve freshness, yet with botrytis already present. Hints of honey and meat reduction add interest in the finish, and the flavors of this silken-textured wine may knit itself more after a year or two in bottle. The ever-experimental Patrick Javillier continues to pursue a unique approach, vinifying and elevating separate lots from each cru that in turn emphasize fruit, minerality, mouth feel, and structure; then assembling them late. (For a long time, Javillier distinguished as “Cuvee Speciale,” bottlings done later and without filtration. But in 2006, no such distinction was observed, and all of the wines are untiltered.) In 2003, Javillier adopted the contrarian viewpoint that the wines needed ample battonage and time on the lees to insure a structure that would compensate for low acidity, but in 2006 he felt the need to rack and bottle somewhat earlier than usual to preserve freshness and – in his words – “Burgundian character.” While he touts the virtues of this vintage for early drinking – and this is one address where 2004 and 2005 appear today to have the edge in quality, including potential longevity – samples of several of Javillier’s young 2006s that had taken on air for a day were, perhaps tellingly, more revelatory and satisfying that those freshly uncorked. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93