2008 Langhe Rosso La Villa

The 2008 La Villa benefits from the tannins and length of the Nebbiolo, which compensates for the lack of fruit from the Barbera in this vintage. The 2008 isn’t a huge or complex La Villa, but it does show excellent balance and should drink for a number of years based on its structure and freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. This is a stellar set of wines from Elio Altare. The 2008 Nebbioli were brought in between October 7 and 10, which is a bit late for this estate. The 2008s have a Pinot-like sweetness that is incredibly appealing. Experiments with a fully destemmed Barolo continue. It will be interesting to see how those wines develop over the coming years, but so far the results are intriguing, to say the least. The biggest piece of news, however, is a new lease on a parcel of Cannubi, of which there are now five barrels resting in the cellar with vintage 2011. The new addition will console Altare fans over the loss of the Barolo Brunate, which will no longer be made, as Altare lost access to that fruit after the 2011 harvest. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel.(415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

(a 60/40 blend of barbera and nebbiolo): Deep ruby-red. Blackberry and cocoa powder on the nose. Fat, seamless and sweet. A bit more muscular than the Arborina but also fresher thanks to the acidity contributed by the barbera. This has the sheer fruit intensity to support its ripe tannins.