2006 Savigny Les Beaune Aux Guettes

The Bize 2006 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Guettes displays fine-grained tannins and attractively ripe black fruits, if less depth or intensity than did the corresponding Serpentieres. Suggestions of dark chocolate and cherry pit add a pleasantly invigorating bitterness to a finish that follows the other wines in this collection in its relatively solemn personality. I would plan to drink it over the next 4-5 years. Patrick Bize and Guillaume Bott picked largely in the last days of September, taking into account the need for 10-15% of the fruit to have to be segregated and discarded. The fruit for a number of wines was entirely de-stemmed – a more rigorous practice than usual here – to mitigate greenness or bitterness of flavor. The results generally – but no always (as witness a particularly astringent Grands Liards) – preserve the clarity, and mineral intrigue that one expects at this address, although they make for a somewhat somber and low-keyed lot tonally, and do not remotely measure up to the outstanding 2005s. It should be born in mind that Bize wines from the 1980s – when there a great many more marginally ripe and rot-plagued harvests than growers or consumers have had to suffer through since – had a habit of performing remarkably well in challenging vintages once given a few years in bottle. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70