2006 Chambolle Musigny

One of several bottlings that are labeled "Fils & Pere" – from parcels they control but do not own – Dujac's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Fils & Pere represents, in Seysses words "a pretty good patchwork of the whole appellation Chambolle." Red raspberry and red currant are garnished with flowers and brown spices in the nose as well as on a quite silken-textured, juicy, bright palate. There is a subtle mineral dimension and attractive persistence of floral perfume in the finish. "This was the Fils & Pere wine we had to work the hardest on, due to the hail," adds Seysses, and there is no question it paid off with a fine illustration of its village and the potential virtues of its vintage. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 3-4 years, although it might well prove significantly longer-lived. Jeremy Seysses only destemmed a minority of his 2006 fruit, and in some appellations none. The results demonstrate that Dujac got things ripe – not to mention right – in a challenging vintage, with a collection that need not fear comparison with 2005 at this address. (Perhaps, if anything, 2005 ought to look to its laurels!) The team here started picking only on September 23, and then very meticulously and selectively. Clos de la Roche, for example, was picked in two passes nearly a week apart. The top wines came in at between 13 and 13.5% natural alcohol, with minimal chaptalization employed in some instances to extend fermentation. "Color and flavor extraction was easy," says Seysses, "and we did more punch-downs than in 2005, because we felt quite confident of our material. The fruit is fresh and crisp, but not green, and we had no jamminess. It was just right. There's very little to complain about." Indeed! Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724