2009 Volnay Clos d'Audignac

The 2009 Volnay Clos d'Audignac is the most open and inviting of these 2009s today. Layers of rich, textured fruit flow across the palate in stunning style. Hints of goudron and licorice add complexity to the dark, jammy fruit.

The 2009 Volnay Clos d'Audignac is the most open and inviting of these 2009s today. Layers of rich, textured fruit flow across the palate in stunning style. Hints of goudron and licorice add complexity to the dark, jammy fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Good deep ruby-red. Very closed but pure nose hints at black cherry, dark berries, licorice and mint. Dense, lush and sweet, with strong fruit intensified by serious inner-mouth energy. Showing less early personality than the Caillerets or Clos de la Bousse d'Or but this is still quite primary. Finishes with very broad, suave, mouthdusting tannins and a medicinal quality. Very promising for this cuvee, from vines facing northeast.