1999 Napa Valley Chardonnay

Wild, gamey aromas of dried fruits, honey, smoke, truffle and nuts. Less fruit-driven and more minerally in the mouth than the younger 2003, with terrific fat and depth. Here the acids have been integrated into the wine. With aeration, this wine showed hints of exotic fruits as well as firmer notes of lemon and grapefruit. 'During the wine's second year in barrel, we get rid of the primary fruit and get down to the bones of the wine,' says Kongsgaard. Not surprisingly, last year I described the then-unfinished 2002 as a fruit bomb and noted that the bottled 2001 was more minerally in character! Distinctly tannic on the finish. A wine of vendange tardive-like texture and ripeness. (ST)

The light green/gold-colored 1999 Chardonnay (900 cases) displays an extraordinary perfume of liquified minerals, honeysuckle, citrus oils, smoky nuts, and hints of caramel as well as orange marmalade. As it sits in the glass, even more nuances develop. It is concentrated yet extraordinarily structured and intense (much like its winemaker). This wine will drink beautifully over the next 7-8 years. These wines are primarily available via Kongsgaard's mailing list. Fax (707) 963-4512

Aromas of candied apple, ripe citrus fruits, minerals and spices. Dense and spicy in the mouth, with bright apple and citrus flavors over a firm mineral spine. Very rich and very fresh. Finishes with excellent clarity and grip. This wine was still on its lees without addition of SO2 in late February; Kongsgaard stirred the lees until December of 2000.