2017 Aulerde GG [16 22]

The 2017 Aulerde Riesling GG is clear, intense and concentrated on the nose, with super ripe and clear peach aromas and the purity of a flinty terroir. Intense, pure and salty on the palate, this is a concentrated and juicy Riesling with remarkable elegance, finesse and salty length. Impressive. Tasted in March 2020.

The nose here is restrained but offers a satisfying and intriguing meld of fruit and mineral intimations. The feel is polished, almost silken, and the pronounced phenolics characteristic of Wittmann Rieslings are unusually restrained yet invigoratingly efficacious. On the long finish, striking ashy and chalky notes that might otherwise have conduced to austerity are integrated into a refreshing onrush of juicy ripe lime, grapefruit, apple and honeydew melon. A model of clarity as well as surprisingly charming and youthfully accessible, this Aulerde should nonetheless show yet more impressively with time in bottle. “It was a peculiar situation,” said Wittmann of Aulerde in this vintage, “the upper reaches of the site decimated by hail, the rest with perfect grapes. These old vines,” he added, “were especially capable of weathering the summer drought.”

Lavish yellow fruit, including some almost overripe pineapple. This just avoids tipping into opulence; there\'s healthy acidity and that lifts this monster dry riesling at the bold, herbal finish. From almost 70 year old vines. Biodynamically grown grapes. Respekt certified. Drink or hold.