2004 Riesling Heissenberg
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Tasting notes
The 2004 Riesling Heissenberg is redolent of grapefruit rind, peach, honey, sage and marjoram. Formidably-concentrated but not as viscous as the 2005, it offers satisfying inner-mouth florality honeyed richness, juicy peach and citrus, and a clearer, more refined finish than the 2005. Andre Ostertag continues to render some of the most distinctively delicious and thought-provoking wines in Alsace. He now has 120 parcels among his 35 acres, and no grower of my acquaintance gives more thought to aesthetic and stylistic considerations when it comes to vinifying and assembling his many lots. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
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(this red sandstone and granite soil frequently gives good results in wet years, says Ostertag) Green-tinged color. Peach, pineapple, spices and wet stone on the nose, with an enticing floral lift. Juicy, intense and fairly dry; penetrating and aromatic in the mouth. Quite closed today, even a bit austere, but shows good density and conveys an impression of weightlessness. Finishes perfumed and long. Very suave riesling, but give it a couple years in the bottle before pulling the cork. Interestingly, Ostertag describes this one as "charming" and considers the Fronholz to be more austere.