2006 Yarden Merlot

The 2006 MERLOT (YARDEN) clocks in at 15%, but it seems to handle it quite well. Those looking at the price tags on the single vineyard Merlots reviewed this issue, might find some solace here, and in fact this might be the most complete wine of the group, free of flaws and nicely balanced. This is a beautifully constructed wine, focused, pointed and with a serious backbone. It does seem very new world, the oak a little too prominent (it spent 14 months in French oak, only 40% new), which constrained my enthusiasm a little. Yet it is hard to dislike this beautifully constructed wine. If the style is to your liking, you’ve got yourself a serious bargain here and you should stock up. I’m betting that it will age fairly well if well stored and handled. This 2006 is the current release on the shelves; the importer advises that the ’07 will not be available until sometime next year in the USA. Drink now-2016. Golan Heights is in most respects the father of the modern Israeli wine industry, the winery that insisted that Israel could compete on quality. They’ve made some of the best Israeli wines I’ve had, but they have a very diversified portfolio which covers various quality levels and price ranges. I do feel they have a heavy hand with the oak at times, particularly, but not exclusively, on the whites. Importer: Yarden, Inc., New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 997-9463