2011 Viognier Lia

DuMol's Viognier Lia is rich, textured and expressive on the palate. White flowers, pears and white peaches meld together in a perfumed, floral Viognier with tons of near term appeal. In 2011, the Lia is all about silkiness. The loose clusters and thick skins of Viognier handled the vintage well.

The 2011 Viognier Lia is fermented largely in neutral wood and stainless steel barrels with a small amount, 12%, kept in new oak. There are 230 cases of the 2011, which reflects some of that vintage’s difficulties. Nevertheless, it is an excellent wine offering notes of white peaches, honeysuckle and apricot marmalade in a medium-bodied, richly fruity, pure, crisp style. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Since its founding in 1996, DuMol has been one of the superstar wineries of the entire California North Coast. They primarily focus on gorgeous Burgundian-styled Chardonnays from cool micro-climates as well as Pinot Noirs, with the added attraction of one Viognier and one or two Syrahs. They have been consistent from the beginning with winemaker Andy Smith, who has a brilliant record not only at DuMol, but at several other estates where he is the full-time winemaker, particularly the Napa Valley estate of Larkmead, just north of St. Helena. All five 2011 Chardonnays I tasted merit serious attention from consumers. Forget the difficulties of this vintage as DuMol came through with flying colors. All of the 2011 Pinot Noirs were harvested before the heavy rains fell in October, except for the Cuvee Ian, which was completely declassified. The three vintages of Syrah Eddie’s Patch I tasted come from a vineyard called Hoppe-Kelly, which is planted in red soils southeast of Healdsburg, near Chalk Hill. Tel. (925) 254-8922

The 2011 Viognier Lia wraps around the palate with lovely notes of lychee, apricot, passion fruit and white flowers. There is plenty of varietal nuance in the glass, along with just an extra hint of California volume that adds richness, but does not overpower. All in all, this is a terrific wine that should drink well for a handful of years.