2005 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard

Planted on several ridgetops 12 miles north-west of Jenner, this site lies on the second range of hills in from the Pacific at 1,200–1,550 ft of elevation on very gravelly Hugo loam and Hugo–Josephine complex. Planted in 1995, this site is farmed using organically certified materials and biodynamic methods but is not certified. Free-run juice from a combination of destemmed fruit and roughly 30% whole clusters is fermented with ambient yeasts in a combination of steel and wood, utilising both punchdowns and pumpovers, with the wines pressed at dryness. Aged for 14–17 months in 20–25% new French oak on the lees with no racking. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Medium to dark ruby with a cloudy haze. Aromas of forest floor, smoked meats, flowers and red berries. Flavours of dried flowers, raspberries, cherry, forest floor and dried herbs have a citrus-peel brightness as juicy acidity makes the mouth water. Fleecy tannins emerge and stiffen on the finish, with citrus peel, dried and fresh green-herbal notes. There's a stony seamlessness to this wine with a hint of evergreen. Extremely delicious. (AY)

(the crop level here was an infinitesimal 0.46 tons per acre, according to Lemon) Deep red-ruby. Dark fruits, exotic spices and bitter chocolate on the nose. Big, rich, spicy and superconcentrated, but for all its tactile extract this boasts lovely balance. The dark fruit flavors saturate the palate. Very densely packed pinot noir that offers impressive palate presence.

The 2005 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is fabulous. All the pedigree of this great site comes through in a Pinot that marries ripe fruit, structure and dynamic energy. At twenty years of age, the 2005 is peaking today. Sweet floral accents, cinnamon, blood orange and pomegranate stain the palate in this decidedly exuberant Pinot Noir. Even with all its textural richness from the low crop that year, the 2005 retains terrific freshness.