2009 Chardonnay Mays Canyon

The 2009 Chardonnay Mays Canyon shows the more fresh, citrus-driven side of Chardonnay. Lemon, white flowers and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that emerge from this finely sculpted, chiseled Chardonnay. This is an especially understated, cool style endowed with tons of energy and finesse. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I was totally blown away by the wines I tasted with proprietor Ted Lemon. These are some of the most refined, polished Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs being made in California today. I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. Lemon describes 2009 as a mild season with prolonged bloom that resulted in considerable shatter and a high amount of shot berries. There was no real heat to speak of in September. The 2010s were harvested during the first two weeks of October, much later than the 2009s. I also tasted a handful of 2010 Pinots from tank that appear promising, even if stylistically they aren’t as generous as the 2009s. Tel. (707) 823-9586; www.littorai.com

Pale bright yellow. Pungent herbs, white peach, lemon drop and licorice on the nose. Dense, juicy and savory, with a distinctly chewy quality to the yellow fruit flavors. A serious style of chardonnay without any easy sweetness. Finishes dry, lemony and understated. The malolactic fermentation did not finish until December of 2010.