2004 Riesling QbA Trocken

The basic 2004 Riesling trocken smells rather austerely but stimulatingly of apple pip, fresh lemon, and wet stones, and these themes continue on the palate, augmented by a satisfyingly satiny texture and juicy, sappy finishing fruit intensity. While this wine is not on the same level as its 2001 counterpart, it is interesting to note that the latter – of which I recently, with regret, uncorked my last bottle – is ravishing, indeed probably at its apex today. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463.