2012 Charmes Chambertin Cuvee des Merles

The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Cuvee des Merles has a precise bouquet with scents of boysenberry jam intermingling with blackberry and a little pine. The palate is silky smooth with fresh black fruit: blackberry and bilberry at the tip of the tongue, more dark plum towards the back. There is a touch of reduction just occluding the finish but that will of course clear by bottling. Good matiere here – I would give this 4-5 years in bottle. Last year, Laurent bought a single barrel from the Hospices auction that he said was like chewing a piece of wood when he received it. (He’s actually not the only one with that sentiment.) Laurent Ponsot, when he is not the Lone Ranger fighting alleged fraud, is busy making wine in his own individual way from his winery perched on the higher reaches overlooking Morey village. As ever, he is refreshingly candid in his views, passionate about the tenets he applies to winemaking, but always counterbalanced with tongue-in-cheek humor. I concentrated on the premier and grand cru 2012s since he was just about to bottle his village crus after one year and they were not ready. He told me that he commenced picking on 3 October, several days later than most winemakers, a date that he assured me he knew as far back as June due to natural indicators, whatever they may be. Yields averaged around 19 hectoliters per hectare, lower for the grand crus, while his famous Aligote from Monts Luisants was wiped out by oidium not from the vines, but from the nearby forest that pricked the flavor of the wine. (I did mischievously quip that I knew of someone in the United States who might be able to rustle some up if so desired – I could not help myself). What I like about Laurent’s wines is that they are edgy, uncompromising, occasionally “Marmite” wines that perhaps like the man himself, goes out to divide opinion and create debate. His strict use of old barrels combined with a dizzying array of grand crus combine to create distinct wines that tend to wear their heart of their sleeves. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802, Atherton Wine Imports (CA) and through Geodhuis & Co in the UK.